Photowalk through Shanghai

Of all the ways to experience a city, nothing quite captures its essence like walking. With just a light bag on my back and a camera slung over my shoulder, I’m free to discover a place at my own pace. I love setting a distant destination and letting my curiosity and photographer’s eye lead the way, with each turn revealing new stories.

During our Shanghai trip, we mostly moved as a family unit, visiting relatives and child-friendly attractions. But one day, as my wife and in-laws entertained the kids, I seized the opportunity to explore the city on foot, alone with my thoughts and camera.

Starting from the southernmost edge of the Changning District, I embarked on what would become a five-mile journey spanning nearly five hours.

I dropped a few pins on my map for loose guidance, but allowed myself the freedom to wander and discover. First priority? Coffee, of course.

% Arabica

I’d been hearing whispers about % Arabica for years, though as a recent convert to coffee, I hadn’t made it a priority.

While their sleek, minimalist cafés can be found in more than a dozen countries, nearly half of % Arabica’s two hundred locations are nestled throughout mainland China. I visited their shop inside the Shanghai Film Art Center, eager to see if it lived up to the hype.

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The space reminded me of Blue Bottle, but with a focus on espresso drinks. Though not typically an espresso aficionado, I can confidently say their Kyoto Latte was sublime — velvety, perfectly balanced, and exactly the fuel I needed for my urban adventure.

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With a buzz setting in, I set my sights on the next destination: Columbia Circle.

Columbia Circle

Nestled in the Changning District along Yan’an West Road sits Columbia Circle, a mixed-use development reminiscent of what I had encountered in Taipei earlier in my travels.

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The complex began its life in the 1920s as the Columbia Country Club — an exclusive refuge for American expatriates with its distinctive Spanish Colonial Revival architecture. For over sixty years, it served as the campus for the Shanghai Institute of Biological Products before its current incarnation.

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A collaborative restoration project by OMA, ECADI, and West 8 breathed new life into these historical structures, transforming the campus into a vibrant cultural hub. Today, it houses an eclectic mix like design powerhouse IDEO, alongside intimate cafés, innovative restaurants, boutiques, and spaces dedicated to artistic expression.

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coffeaSHED

My first stop within Columbia Circle was coffeaSHED. This thoughtfully designed space takes its name from Coffea (the genus of coffee plants) and the concept of a shelter or shed. It’s far more than just another café — it’s a community-minded venue where coffee culture, sustainable agriculture, and upcycled fashion intersect. Had I not already been caffeinated, I would have eagerly sampled their sustainably sourced coffee.

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Occupying building 3 of Columbia Circle, the space was reimagined by kooo architects earlier in the year. The design fully embraces the shed concept, featuring industrial elements like corrugated steel and concrete alongside floor tiling that flows seamlessly between interior and exterior spaces.

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I was particularly captivated by the greenhouse-inspired extension with its exposed wooden framework and translucent plastic walls that bathed the space in gentle, diffused light.

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naze naze

Just upstairs from coffea SHED, I discovered naze naze — a textile brand with purpose beyond profit. This socially conscious enterprise is dedicated to preserving traditional weaving techniques while supporting the artisan communities who practice them.

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The brand collaborates with hundreds of weavers across select artisan communities in China, not only helping distribute and market their creations but also donating to their local villages.

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Each textile tells a story of heritage and human connection.

klee klee & friends

Next door stands a boutique by Shanghai-based fashion label klee klee. I was instantly drawn to their collection — pieces that balanced a natural color palette with clean, minimalist design in a way that felt both timeless and distinctly contemporary.

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The space also showcased stunning multi-colored 3D printed vases created by TRASHAUS, the same studio responsible for the planters punctuating the outdoor areas. These pieces embody Shanghai’s fusion of traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology.

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Los Pacos

By midday, hunger had set in, and I couldn’t resist stopping for tacos at Los Pacos. I’m helplessly draw to Mexican cuisine wherever I go. I have sampled it in corners of the world far from its origins — sometimes with mixed results (looking at you, Amsterdam and Stockholm).

The tacos here, with their juicy meats, soft flour tortillas and addition of lettuce, struck me as a fascinating hybrid between authentic taqueria fare and familiar Taco Bell comfort food. But it was the tres leches cake that stole the show.

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If not for the entirely app-based ordering system, I might have momentarily forgotten I was in China rather than Mexico City.

Tsutaya

When it comes to bookstores that transcend mere retail spaces, eslite and Tsutaya reign supreme in my book. I’ve long been enchanted by Tsutaya’s “T-site” in Daikanyama, so finding their Columbia Circle location — their first Chinese outpost — felt like stumbling upon an old friend in a new city.

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From the outside, you’d hardly know what awaits inside — the historical façade has been meticulously preserved, with only subtle signage marking it as Tsutaya.

Stepping inside transported me to a private sanctuary. It didn’t feel so much a commercial bookstore as the personal library of an eclectic bookworm.

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The intimate scale, with its low ceilings and narrow passageways, created a cozy atmosphere that invited lingering and discovery — a perfect break from the urban energy outside.

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Nineteen Forty

My next discovery was Nineteen Forty, an inspired marriage of coffee shop and bicycle boutique. Founded just months earlier, the brand offers a collection of practical, unfussy bikes specifically created for navigating Chinese urban landscapes.

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In one corner, I noticed a dedicated showroom space for Swedish e-bike brand CAKE, their sleek designs providing a striking counterpoint to the more utilitarian local offerings.

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Yujian Project

On paper, the Yujian Project might sound like Columbia Circle’s spiritual twin — both aimed at breathing new life into historical urban fabric. Yet the execution reveals a fundamentally different philosophy. Where Columbia Circle leans into curated experiences for the design-conscious, Yujian embraces a more democratic vision of urban renewal, integrating everyday necessities like barbershops and cobblers alongside trendy boutiques.

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I was particularly drawn to Common Rare’s Café & Select Shop. Common Rare has developed a cult following for their creator markets held throughout the year in Shanghai. Their permanent shop distills this energy into a more concentrated form — a carefully curated collection of objects sourced globally, complemented by exceptional coffee.

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Situated in a considerably more bustling neighborhood, the Yujian Project and its surroundings were full of locals and visitors alike browsing storefronts and settling down for dinner.

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By this point, fatigue was beginning to set in, and I knew dinner with family awaited. Reluctantly, I cut my exploration short, making a mental note to return and dive deeper next time.

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Shanghai Streets

What strikes me most about Shanghai’s streets is their magnificent diversity. Perhaps only rivaled by Singapore, Shanghai is a true crossroads of global influence, where cultures collide and coexist in fascinating ways.

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During my walk, I witnessed the full spectrum of urban transportation — sleek electric vehicles gliding silently past hand-pulled carts that wouldn’t look out of place a century ago. I turned a corner from a majestic beaux arts mansion to find myself facing a modernist housing complex rendered entirely in concrete, glass, and steel.

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In one nondescript alley, I discovered a coffee shop that could have been plucked from London’s Hackney or Tokyo’s Nakameguro. At a nearby street, a vendor snoozed at his stand where he sells homemade sausage.

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This seamless blend of old and new, Eastern and Western influences is what gives Shanghai its incomparable character. As I reflected in an earlier piece, you can observe a clear division between these worlds when viewing the city from the banks of the Huangpu River.

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Yet at street level, moving through the city on foot, these distinctions dissolve into a beautiful, sometimes chaotic mix of urban life that would surely delight Jane Jacobs — a testament to the organic vibrancy that makes this great city truly unforgettable.

Thanks to Q for reading drafts of this.